Every fall, without fail, I make this pie. It's the one my mother made, and her mother before her. The recipe has been adjusted over the years — a little more butter here, a touch of cinnamon there — but the spirit of it is unchanged.

The secret, as with most great pies, is the crust.

The all-butter crust

I know some bakers swear by lard or shortening for flakiness. I've tried them all. I always come back to butter — for the flavor, for the color, for the way it smells when it bakes. Here's my recipe:

• 2½ cups all-purpose flour
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 tablespoon sugar
• 1 cup (2 sticks) cold unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch cubes
• 6 to 8 tablespoons ice water

The key is keeping everything cold. Cold butter, ice water, cold hands if you can manage it. Work quickly and stop mixing the moment the dough comes together — overworked crust is tough crust. Divide into two discs, wrap in plastic, and refrigerate for at least an hour.

The filling

• 6 to 7 medium apples (I use a mix of Granny Smith and Honeycrisp)
• ¾ cup sugar
• 2 tablespoons flour
• 1 teaspoon cinnamon
• ¼ teaspoon nutmeg
• 1 tablespoon lemon juice
• 2 tablespoons butter, cut into small pieces

Peel, core, and slice the apples about ¼ inch thick. Toss with the sugar, flour, spices, and lemon juice. Let sit for 15 minutes — the apples will release some juice, which is exactly what you want.

Assembly and baking

Roll out the bottom crust and fit it into a 9-inch pie dish. Add the filling, dot with butter, then add the top crust. Crimp the edges, cut a few vents, and brush with an egg wash (one egg beaten with a tablespoon of cream) for that beautiful golden color.

Bake at 425°F for 20 minutes, then reduce to 375°F and bake for another 35 to 40 minutes until the crust is deeply golden and the filling is bubbling through the vents.

Cool for at least 2 hours before slicing. Serve with good vanilla ice cream or a dollop of fresh whipped cream. This is fall in a dish.